Side Quest: Bishoftu – Two Days of Dust, Blood, and Beauty
"Travel isn't always pretty. It isn't always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you." — Anthony Bourdain
📆 Dates: March 23–24, 2025
👥 Riders: Craig & Ned
🚴♂️ Bikes: Drop-Bar Gravel
The Route: Half-Planned, Half-Madness
This adventure started as all the best ones do—not perfectly mapped out but pieced together from GPS tracks, satellite images, and gut instincts. We aimed for a loop from Addis Ababa to Bishoftu and back, combining pavement, dirt, farm roads, and trails that barely qualified as paths. What we ended up with was a ride brimming with challenge, surprise, and unforgettable moments.
🛣 Day 1: Addis to Bishoftu
Distance: 83.6 km | Elevation Gain: 644 m | Launch Time: 8:00 AM
Mechanical Carnage & Cactus Revenge
Less than ten kilometers into the ride, my front rim split from hitting a hidden gap in the pavement. Optimism took a hard hit, but the journey pressed on into open countryside. Ahead, Mount Zuqualla stood shrouded in mist, a majestic sentinel watching our progress.
Dented and cracked gravel bike rim only 10km into our journey
An Ethiopian Guardian Angel
Just when we thought we were back on track, the damaged rim failed, leaving us stranded. Unexpected help arrived from a local man who silently guided us to his humble home and barbershop. With rusty tools and generous spirit, he helped us repair the rim just enough to continue. His kindness defined the spirit of Ethiopia.
Yet trouble wasn't done with us—a cactus thorn punctured the newly fixed tire shortly after. Thankfully, Ned's foresight and spare tubeless sealant saved the day.
Everywhere we traveled, we encountered warmth and curiosity, contradicting grim internet warnings. A little effort with the local language opened doors and hearts, transforming brief encounters into meaningful interactions.
🏨 Bishoftu Nights at Menanda Hotel
We arrived in Bishoftu covered in dust and desperate for comfort. The Menanda Hotel delivered exactly that—simple rooms, hot showers, and a merciful breakfast. Lakeside beers at sunset and excellent local Indian food closed the day, healing our tired bodies.
🗺 Bishoftu: History Beneath the Tires
Built atop collapsed volcanic craters, Bishoftu is a place where ancient geology meets vibrant Oromo traditions. Riding around crater lakes and exploring backroads felt like traveling through layers of history, absorbing the slow, lingering pace of life.
🏞 Day 2: Bishoftu to Addis
Distance: 57.8 km | Elevation Gain: 964 m | Start Time: 10:00 AM
Hyenas, Vultures & Wild Trails
Our second day pushed us further off-grid. Goat trails, dry riverbeds, and faint paths led us through challenging terrain. After one particularly harsh climb, my narrow tires lost grip, resulting in a painful tumble—dirt-filled mouth, bloody knees, humbled pride. Ned, effortlessly ahead on wider tires, showed the advantages of proper gear.
Encounters with hyenas, vultures, and stark reminders of the wild landscape intensified our sense of adventure.
I knew we were on the right track when I spotted a sign warning of a 7% incline—a reassurance rather than a caution. Still, I was completely shattered. My body was sore, dehydration had taken its toll, and I desperately craved real food. Every pedal stroke felt like punishment, but seeing that sign reminded me we were closer to home and relief.
A blue "tuk-tuk," a small three-wheeled vehicle resembling more enclosed motorcycle than car, stopped to ensure we were okay. Ned's simple Amharic phrase, "no problem," was enough to exchange some smiles and send the driver cheerfully on his way, leaving us with lifted spirits as Addis appeared on the horizon, signaling the home stretch.
A small “tuk tuk” stops to check if we are ok. Out of breath and fatigued, we give him a “no problem” in exchange for a smile.
🌯 Addis Redemption: Burritos & Broken Bodies
Returning to Addis felt like a victory lap. Covered in dirt and sunburned, burritos and cold drinks at La Morena tasted like triumph, affirming our small but significant accomplishment.
💧 Lessons Learned: Suffering & Gear
Water: Always carry more—or a filter.
Food: Real nourishment over sugary snacks.
Tires: Wider is unquestionably better.
Tubes: One spare tube is never enough.
Companions: Choose someone like Ned—prepared, resourceful, and respectful.
🌍 Final Thoughts: The Side Quest Ethos
This wasn’t just a ride—it was a reminder of why we travel. We journey not for comfort but for the unpredictable, unforgettable moments that become lasting memories. We ended with cracked rims, scratched limbs, and deep appreciation, eager for the next adventure.
"You learn a lot about someone on the road. Especially when everything goes wrong." —Will Rogers
