Preparing for the Land of a Thousand Hills: A 7-Day Bikepacking Journey

Dirt roads, misty hills, and the hypnotic zip of my freewheel hub—this has been my happy place. Now, Ethiopia’s highlands stretch before us, offering a whole new challenge. Typically, I explore with my wife and two boys, Luke and Ben, in an overbuilt adventure rig, a home on wheels outfitted with a rooftop tent, recovery equipment, and just enough gear to escape civilization for as long as we want. But sometimes, four wheels feel like too much. Sometimes, the best way to know a place is to strip everything back to two wheels and a few bags, letting the road decide how the day unfolds.

2 Fat Bikes loaded with bikepacking equipment. Location: Ducy-Ershim Trail

This time, I won’t be alone. My friend Ned is in, too—a longtime rider, someone who understands the strange satisfaction of long climbs, bad food, and sleeping in places no one else would think to. This June, we’ll tackle a 7-day bikepacking route through Rwanda, famed for its emerald hills and warm, welcoming communities. But before that, we need a trial run—a three-day ride to Wenchi Crater near Addis Ababa. Or at least, that was the plan.

The Scheduling Curveball

Life has a way of complicating even the best-laid plans. A scheduling conflict means our planned three-day Wenchi ride might have to be squeezed into just two long, grueling days in the saddle. Instead of easing into our training ride with strategic overnight stops, we’ll be hammering out back-to-back long-haul days, testing not just our fitness but our ability to adapt and push through fatigue. If we can survive this, Rwanda’s relentless climbs won’t feel as daunting.

Why Rwanda? Why Now?

Long before I spent days grinding up the switchbacks of Yunnan Province in China or hike-a-biking through knee-deep snow on the Ducy-Ershim trail in the Sierra Nevadas, I stumbled upon a Bikepacking.com article about Rwanda. At the time, the idea felt distant, impossible even. That was before we moved to Ethiopia. Now, standing on African soil, the dream is within reach.

My time in Southeast Asia consisted of more off-road overlanding than bikepacking, and I’m now realizing just how much of a toll Laos’ relentless humidity has taken on my equipment. Straps have turned brittle. Hook and loop fasteners don’t grab like they used to. Waterproofing has all but disappeared. Before we tackle the Land of a Thousand Hills, I need to patch, replace, and rethink my setup.

Ned and I have spent years riding separately, tackling our own mountains, chasing our own horizons. Now, we finally get to share the road, suffer side by side, and push each other when the days stretch long and the water runs low. Rwanda feels like a milestone that I'll forever reference on my life's timeline. But before we tackle the rolling landscape, we need to know if our legs, our setups, and our minds are ready. And there’s only one way to find out.

The Crater Ride: Testing Our Grit

Though we’ve only been in Ethiopia a short while, we mapped out a three-day route just beyond Addis Ababa’s bustling edges. Now, with time constraints, our trip has morphed into a two-day endurance test. The plan? Replicate the challenges we’ll face in Rwanda:

• Elevation Gains – Ethiopia’s highlands don’t ease you in; they punish. Exactly what we need before Rwanda’s relentless climbs.

• Mixed Terrain – Gravel, tarmac, maybe even goat paths—perfect for a gear shakedown.

• Mental Fortitude – Bikepacking is as much about battling your mind as your muscles. We’ll push, we’ll break, we’ll ride on.

• Limited Resupply – Addis is a safety net. Rwanda won’t be. Better to learn hard lessons now.

If all goes well, we’ll roll out of this crater ride with our legs dialed in and our gear stripped down to what actually matters.

Global Perspectives & New Realities

We've both spent years living between cultures, crossing borders where maps mean little, where food is whatever the local market offers, and where language barriers force you to rely on gestures and good faith. Ethiopia is new to us, but the thrill of discovery isn’t.

• Cultural Curiosity – There’s something different about seeing a place from the saddle. You move slower. By tasting the dust in the air, you absorb more.

• Adapting to the Unknown – Routes disappear, weather tests you, and meals sometimes consist of whatever fits in your handlebar bag. That’s the game.

• Respectful Travel – Whether in Asia, Africa, or anywhere else on my bike, I am a guest first and act accordingly.

“Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life — and travel — leaves marks on you.” - Anthony Bourdain

My Gear

I plan on riding my 2016 Niner RLT 9 with a Sram Rival 2x11 drivetrain and 40mm Maxxis Ramblers, optimized for efficiency on long days in the saddle. My setup is dialed for the mix of rugged climbs, fast descents, and unpredictable terrain that Rwanda throws at you.

Bag System & Packing Strategy

I’ve kept my load streamlined:

• Woho frame bag – Essential tools and Shotblocks for quick access.

• Woho handlebar bag – Tent (likely just a rainfly and footprint to save weight).

• Blackburn seat bag – Extra bibs, rain shell, and sleeping bag.

• Xlab top tube bag – Snacks and USB battery for quick access.

Essential Gear

• Navigation: Garmin 530

• Lighting: Niterider Lumina 1200 Boost headlight, Garmin Varia 515 rear light and radar

• Repair Kit: Spare derailleur hanger, tubeless plugs, multi-tool with chain breaker

Cooking and Coffee

Vargo Titanium Wood Stove

I use an ultra-light Vargo Titanium stove, which works with wood or alcohol fuel. My cooking system includes a Stanley Adventure two-person kit and an aluminum mug, both of which fit perfectly into my Salsa Anything bag. My Leatherman Wave+ multitool has been my camp companion for over a decade.

Out here, Ethiopian coffee isn’t just a beverage—it’s a ritual, a survival mechanism, and possibly the only thing keeping the universe from complete collapse. I carry freshly roasted beans in a small airtight bag, grinding them each morning with a hand grinder that’s seen more border crossings than some passports.

A Word on Regional Tensions

If you follow the news, you know about M23 rebels in eastern DRC and the geopolitical friction with Rwanda. Conflict looms over headlines, but reality on the ground is often different. As of now, bikepacking routes we've discussed remain open, safe, and full of the same kindness I’ve found in remote corners of the world. Still, we’re watching closely, knowing that flexibility is key. Plans may shift, routes may change. That’s Africa. That’s bikepacking.

Ride On

The next few weeks will be spent grinding up the Wenchi crater, refining our gear, and fine-tuning the balance between necessity and comfort. If all goes well, Rwanda is next.

Want to follow the journey in real-time? Join us on Instagram & YouTube for updates, mishaps, and raw adventure. As I refine my gear and my fitness, leave a comment if you have any tips or questions.